Essential Garment Terms For Stitchers

Essential Garment Terms

These different terms are used within garment construction.

Apron: A piece of cloth, plastic or leather which is tied around the waist and used to protect clothing.

Armband: A band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or mourning.

Armour: This is designed to cover the body, generally made of metal and used in combat.

Allowance: An additional measurement which is added to a body measurement when making a garment.

Applique: A motif made up of pieces of fabric which are sewn or stuck on to a larger piece to form a picture or pattern.

Back rise: Distance between the crotch to the centre back waistline.

Basting: It is the temporary sewing by hand or machine before doing final stitching for better fitting.

Bust point: Focusing point of the chest is called bust point.

Bodice: The part of ladies dress which stay neck to waist.

Back stitch: A type of hand stitch which is use for garment sewing.

Bodkin: A sharp, slender instrument for making holes in clothes.

Closing: An operation in which a side seam is joined in the garment or join lining with fore part.

Collar: The part of the garment (shirt, polo-shirt etc) which stays round the neck.

Cuff: The end point of a sleeve of a shirt laying around the wrist.

Crease: To give crease mark on the fabric or garments/ any kind of creasing or folding in clothes.

Drop Loop: When the waistband loop is placed 1-2 cm below of top waistline.

Darning/mending: When a hole in a piece of fabric is repaired by needle and yarn.

Dummy: This is in the shape of a human body to allow ease of constructing garments and fittings to a particular size and shape.

Ends: Wrap direction threads of fabric are called ends.

Epaulet: Strap on shoulder for a shirt or jacket.

Fork/Crutch/crotch: The part in which inside leg seam of the part is join, this part is called crotch.

Front rise: Distance between crutch to face side of waist band of a garment/pant is called front rise.

Fusing: The method by which fusible interlining is joining with the garments is called fusing.

Faced Cloth: When face side of fabric is different from other side. e.g. Flannel fabric.

Fall: Collar fall, back width of collar after folding.

Fullness: Extra fabric is used for getting shape of a part of a dress. e.g. Sleeve head.

Forearm Line: A line from middle of “front arm hole” to the end of sleeve at thumb.

Fagot Stitch: Zigzag stitch by maintaining gap between two fabrics.

Gusset: To increase the strength or fitting or shape of garments, some extra fabrics are used which is called gusset.

Neatening: The process of sewing in cutting edge of the fabric so that the slack yarn can not be opened.

N.S.A: No sewing allowance.

Hanger Appeal: The shape of garments when hang on Hanger.

Interfacing: When interlining is used inside facing.

Inset: When extra fabric is used for better fitting.

Leaf Edge: The edge of collar which is hanging after folding.

Linking: In sweater Factory, when two fabrics are joined by linking machine.

Lashing: When interlining is attached with facing by using Blind stitch machine.

Making-up: It is process to make garments from fabric.

Off Pressing: Final pressing after sewing the garments.

Off Grain: When weft yarn is not maintaining 90° with selvedge.

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